Scottish food has undergone a revolution. While haggis and whisky remain beloved traditions, Edinburgh's restaurants now showcase Scottish ingredients in ways that rival any European capital. Here's what to eat and where to find it.
Traditional Scottish Dishes
Haggis
Scotland's national dish - spiced minced sheep's offal (heart, liver, lungs) mixed with oatmeal, onions, and suet, traditionally cooked in a sheep's stomach. Sounds terrifying, tastes delicious.
Served with: Neeps (turnip/swede) and tatties (mashed potatoes)
Where to try: The Witchery, Whiski Rooms, The Dogs
Vegetarian: Vegetarian haggis is widely available and excellent
Tip: Try haggis bon bons (deep-fried balls) as an introduction
Cullen Skink
Thick, creamy soup made with smoked haddock, potatoes, and onions. Named after the fishing village of Cullen in Moray. Warming, comforting, and unmistakably Scottish.
Served with: Crusty bread
Where to try: The Shore, Ondine, The Cafe Royal
Vegetarian: No vegetarian version - it's all about the fish
Tip: Perfect on a cold Edinburgh day
Scottish Salmon
Scotland produces some of the world's finest salmon. Whether wild-caught or responsibly farmed, it's a menu staple. Try it smoked, cured (gravlax), or fresh.
Served with: Varies - salads, scrambled eggs, or as a main course
Where to try: Ondine, The Kitchin, fishmongers at Stockbridge Market
Vegetarian: N/A
Tip: Smoked salmon from the Scottish Highlands is exceptional
Scotch Pie
Traditional double-crust meat pie with minced mutton or beef in a hot water crust pastry. A Scottish institution, especially at football matches. Portable and delicious.
Served with: Baked beans, or just on its own
Where to try: Piemaker, any good bakery, football grounds
Vegetarian: Vegetarian versions available at some bakeries
Tip: The pastry crust is designed to be held without burning your hands
Cranachan
Traditional Scottish dessert - whipped cream, whisky, honey, fresh raspberries, and toasted oatmeal. Light, boozy, and perfectly showcases Scottish ingredients.
Served with: As a dessert on its own
Where to try: The Witchery, Henderson's, most traditional restaurants
Vegetarian: Yes (contains cream)
Tip: The whisky should be subtle, not overpowering
Black Pudding
Blood sausage made with pork blood, oatmeal, and fat. Stornoway black pudding from the Outer Hebrides has Protected Geographical Indication. Rich, earthy, and essential to a Scottish breakfast.
Served with: Full Scottish breakfast, or as a starter with scallops
Where to try: Any breakfast spot, The Dogs, Timberyard
Vegetarian: No - it's blood sausage
Tip: Black pudding with scallops is a classic Scottish combination
The Full Scottish Breakfast
A proper Scottish breakfast includes:
- •Bacon (back bacon, not streaky)
- •Sausages (square Lorne sausage is traditional)
- •Black pudding
- •Haggis (sometimes)
- •Fried eggs
- •Baked beans
- •Tattie scones (potato scones)
- •Toast and butter
- •Grilled tomatoes and mushrooms
The key differences from an English breakfast: square sausage (Lorne), tattie scones, and often haggis.
Modern Scottish Cuisine
Edinburgh's top restaurants showcase Scottish ingredients with international techniques:
The Kitchin
Michelin star
Tom Kitchin's flagship restaurant. 'From Nature to Plate' philosophy showcasing Scottish ingredients in French techniques.
Restaurant Martin Wishart
Michelin star
French-Scottish fine dining in Leith. Elegant, precise cooking with Scottish produce.
Timberyard
Modern Scottish
Seasonal tasting menus in a converted warehouse. Foraged ingredients and Scottish produce.
The Little Chartroom
Modern Scottish
Small plates and natural wines showcasing seasonal Scottish ingredients. Relaxed but excellent.
Aizle
Modern Scottish
Mystery tasting menus based on seasonal Scottish ingredients. You don't know what you're eating until it arrives.
Where to Eat Scottish Food
Traditional Scottish
Classic Scottish dishes in atmospheric settings
Try: The Witchery, Whiski Rooms, The Grain Store, Dubh Prais
Scottish Breakfast
Full Scottish breakfasts done properly
Try: The Pantry, Loudons, Urban Angel, Snax Cafe
Seafood
Fresh Scottish seafood
Try: Ondine, The Shore, Fishers Leith, The Fishmarket Newhaven
Casual Scottish
Scottish food without the formality
Try: The Dogs, Mums Great Comfort Food, Hendersons
Food Shops & Markets
I.J. Mellis Cheesemonger
Victoria Street & Stockbridge
Scottish artisan cheeses
Valvona & Crolla
Elm Row
Italian deli with Scottish produce
George Bower Butcher
Stockbridge
Traditional butcher, haggis, black pudding
Stockbridge Market
Stockbridge
Sunday farmers' market
Eating Tips
- 🍴Haggis is delicious - don't let the ingredients put you off
- 🍴Scottish salmon is a world away from farmed salmon elsewhere
- 🍴Lunch deals at fine dining restaurants offer great value
- 🍴The best seafood is often in Leith and Newhaven
- 🍴Vegetarian haggis is surprisingly good and widely available
- 🍴Scottish breakfast will keep you going all day
- 🍴Book ahead for popular restaurants, especially weekends
- 🍴Ask for 'tatties' not 'potatoes' to sound local