Leith is Edinburgh's port, its foodie heart, and increasingly its coolest neighbourhood. Once rough around the edges (Trainspotting was set here), it's now home to two Michelin-starred restaurants and some of the best eating and drinking in Scotland.
Highlights
The Shore
Waterfront
The historic heart of Leith where the Water of Leith meets the docks. Lined with excellent restaurants, pubs, and converted warehouses. This is where locals come to eat.
Royal Yacht Britannia
Attraction
The former royal yacht, now permanently moored in Leith. Tour the Queen's private quarters, crew areas, and learn about royal life at sea. Book ahead.
Ocean Terminal
Shopping
Large shopping centre at the waterfront, home to Britannia and a cinema. Good for rainy days but the real Leith is outside.
Leith Links
Park
Historic parkland where golf was first played with written rules (1744). Pleasant for walks and the annual Leith Festival.
Where to Eat
The Kitchin
Michelin star
Tom Kitchin's flagship. 'From Nature to Plate' philosophy with Scottish ingredients and French technique. Book well ahead.
Restaurant Martin Wishart
Michelin star
Elegant French-Scottish fine dining. Exceptional tasting menus and impeccable service.
Ondine
Seafood
Sustainable Scottish seafood done brilliantly. The oyster bar is particularly good. Actually in Old Town but spirit of Leith.
The Shore Bar & Restaurant
Seafood/Scottish
Cosy waterfront spot with excellent seafood and Scottish dishes. Atmospheric and authentic.
Fishers Leith
Seafood
Long-standing seafood restaurant in a 17th-century watchtower. Fresh fish, great location.
Origano
Italian
Casual Italian with excellent pizza and pasta. Great value for the quality.
Merienda
Spanish
Small plates and Spanish wines. Relaxed atmosphere, excellent food.
Pubs & Bars
The Ship on the Shore
Seafood-focused pub on the water. Great fish and chips and local ales.
Nobles Bar
Traditional Leith pub with a locals' feel. Good beer selection, unpretentious.
Teuchters Landing
Floating bar on a converted barge. Whisky selection and Scottish food. Unique setting.
The Roseleaf
Quirky cafe-bar serving drinks in teapots. Great for brunch or afternoon drinks.
Port O' Leith
Historic sailor's pub with character. Covered in maritime memorabilia.
Getting to Leith
Bus
22, 35, 36 from city centre (15-20 mins)
Tram
Tram to Ocean Terminal (runs frequently)
Walk
30-40 mins from Princes Street via Leith Walk
Taxi/Uber
About £10-15 from city centre
Leith History
- •Leith was an independent burgh until 1920 when it merged with Edinburgh
- •Historic port for Edinburgh - Scotland's trade flowed through here
- •Mary Queen of Scots landed at Leith in 1561 after returning from France
- •Trainspotting by Irvine Welsh is set in Leith
- •Home to Scotland's oldest golf rules (1744)
- •The Shore was once one of the busiest ports in Scotland
Tips
- ✓The best restaurants are on The Shore and surrounding streets
- ✓Book Michelin restaurants weeks (or months) ahead
- ✓Lunch deals at top restaurants offer great value
- ✓The walk from Edinburgh along the Water of Leith is beautiful
- ✓Leith Market on Saturdays has great food stalls
- ✓Ocean Terminal is fine, but the real Leith is on The Shore
- ✓Evening is the best time for atmosphere
- ✓Combine with a visit to Royal Yacht Britannia