Greyfriars Kirkyard is one of Edinburgh's most evocative places—a 16th-century cemetery where history, legend, and the supernatural intertwine among ancient gravestones and Gothic monuments. Famous for the loyal dog Greyfriars Bobby, rumoured Harry Potter connections, and its resident poltergeist, it's a must-visit for anyone exploring Edinburgh's Old Town.
The kirkyard was established in 1562 as the first burial ground outside Edinburgh's city walls. Over the centuries, it became the resting place for thousands of ordinary citizens and some of Scotland's most notable figures—poets, architects, scientists, and religious martyrs lie beneath its elaborate monuments and weathered headstones.
Today, Greyfriars Kirkyard is both a peaceful green space in the heart of the city and one of Edinburgh's most popular visitor attractions. Whether you come for history, ghost stories, or simply the atmosphere, you'll find a place that captures Edinburgh's unique character like few others.
What to See
Greyfriars Bobby's Grave
The famous Skye Terrier who guarded his master's grave for 14 years. His headstone and statue are Edinburgh's most-visited memorials.
The Covenanters' Prison
A haunted corner where 1,200 prisoners were held in 1679. Said to be home to the Mackenzie Poltergeist—Scotland's most documented ghost.
Historic Graves
Final resting place of poets, architects, and historical figures including Allan Ramsay, James Craig, and countless Edinburgh luminaries.
Harry Potter Connections
Graves bearing names like Thomas Riddell and McGonagall have fuelled speculation about JK Rowling's inspiration for her wizarding world.
Mortsafes
Iron cages over graves from the early 1800s, designed to prevent body snatchers from stealing corpses for medical dissection.
The Kirk
Greyfriars Kirk itself dates from 1620 and is where the National Covenant was signed in 1638, a pivotal moment in Scottish history.
The Story of Greyfriars Bobby
Greyfriars Bobby is Edinburgh's most famous dog and one of the world's most celebrated examples of canine loyalty. This Skye Terrier is said to have guarded the grave of his master, night-watchman John Gray, for 14 years after Gray's death in 1858.
According to legend, Bobby spent his days visiting nearby coffee houses where his master had eaten, and his nights sleeping on or near the grave. The Lord Provost of Edinburgh paid for his licence, and when Bobby died in 1872, he was buried just inside the kirkyard gate, near his beloved master.
A bronze statue of Bobby stands at the top of Candlemaker Row, just outside the kirkyard. Touching his nose is said to bring good luck, though the practice has worn the metal smooth. Inside the kirkyard, a small red granite stone marks Bobby's grave.
Notable Graves
Greyfriars Bobby
Loyal dog who became a legend
James Craig
Architect who designed Edinburgh's New Town
Allan Ramsay
Celebrated Scottish poet
George Buchanan
Renaissance scholar and tutor to James VI
William McGonagall
Scotland's worst (and most beloved) poet
Thomas Riddell
Possible Harry Potter inspiration
Ghosts & Ghost Tours
The Mackenzie Poltergeist
Said to attack visitors in the Covenanters' Prison, Scotland's most documented supernatural case with hundreds of reported incidents.
Night-time Ghost Tours
Several companies run evening tours through the kirkyard, combining history and horror in atmospheric candlelit walks.
Body Snatchers History
Learn about the 'resurrection men' who dug up fresh corpses to sell to Edinburgh's medical schools in the early 1800s.
Several tour companies offer evening ghost walks through the kirkyard. Most include access to the otherwise locked Covenanters' Prison. Book in advance during summer and October.
Harry Potter Connections
Since the publication of the Harry Potter books, fans have flocked to Greyfriars Kirkyard seeking connections to JK Rowling's wizarding world. Several graves bear names strikingly similar to characters in the books.
The grave of Thomas Riddell echoes the real name of Lord Voldemort (Tom Marvolo Riddle). A stone bearing the name McGonagallrecalls Hogwarts' famous professor. Other visitors point to graves for Moodie, Scrymgeour, and more.
Rowling has never confirmed that these graves inspired her character names, but she did write much of the early books in nearby cafés and certainly knew the kirkyard. Whether coincidence or inspiration, it's a fun connection for Potter fans to explore.
Visitor Tips
- ✓Visit during the day for exploring, evening for atmosphere
- ✓Pick up a free map from the kirk information point
- ✓Greyfriars Bobby's statue is outside on Candlemaker Row
- ✓The oldest gravestones are in the southeastern section
- ✓Wear sturdy shoes - the ground can be uneven
- ✓Ghost tours book up in summer - reserve ahead
- ✓The kirkyard is beautiful after light snowfall
- ✓Combine with a visit to the National Museum nearby
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Greyfriars Kirkyard free?
Yes, the kirkyard is completely free to visit. It's open during daylight hours. Ghost tours that access restricted areas charge a fee, but you can explore most of the cemetery independently for free.
What are Greyfriars Kirkyard opening times?
The kirkyard is open daily from dawn to dusk (approximately 7am-8pm in summer, 8am-4:30pm in winter). The church is open for services and visits at set times—check the Greyfriars Kirk website.
Is Greyfriars Kirkyard haunted?
Greyfriars Kirkyard has a fearsome reputation as one of the most haunted places in Britain. The Mackenzie Poltergeist in the Covenanters' Prison has allegedly attacked hundreds of visitors. Ghost tours regularly report unexplained phenomena.
Is Greyfriars Bobby real?
Yes, Greyfriars Bobby was a real dog—a Skye Terrier who reportedly guarded his master John Gray's grave for 14 years until his own death in 1872. His story has been embellished over time, but historical records confirm his existence.
What's the Harry Potter connection to Greyfriars?
Several graves bear names similar to Harry Potter characters: Thomas Riddell (Tom Riddle/Voldemort), McGonagall, and others. JK Rowling wrote much of the early books in nearby cafés. She hasn't confirmed the connection but fans flock here regardless.
Can I take photos at Greyfriars Kirkyard?
Yes, photography for personal use is allowed throughout the kirkyard. Please be respectful of funeral services and visitors paying respects. Drone photography is not permitted.
How long does it take to visit Greyfriars Kirkyard?
A basic visit takes 30-45 minutes. If you want to explore thoroughly, read inscriptions, and visit the kirk, allow 1-2 hours. Ghost tours typically last 60-90 minutes.
Is Greyfriars Kirkyard safe at night?
The kirkyard closes at dusk for public access. Night visits are only possible with official ghost tours. The area around the kirkyard is generally safe, being close to the university and main streets.